Must Have Equipment For A Landcape Photographer
Jan/120
I got bitten by the photography bug way back in the high school. Oddly enough, it was not taking photographs but developing photographs that I found the most fascinating. It all started off at industrial arts class and went from developing photographs to taking my own pictures. Along the way I got to examine many different pieces of photographic equipment and accessories. In this article I would like to focus on one particular area, the equipment that really comes in handy for a landscape photographer.
Certainly one of the most vital pieces of equipment for a landscape photographer is a good camera. Prices can vary, but if you are really serious about becoming a landscape photographer get a good SLR (single lens reflex) camera like the Nikon D7000 or Nikon D5100. It will set you back a pretty penny, but as with most things you can expect to pay for quality.
Another piece so equipment that comes in handy is something that a lot of people don’t think of. What piece of equipment is that? Well a tripod of course. A lot of the most dramatic landscape photographs that really draw your attention are “time lapse” photographs. This means that the image was recorded in rather dim lighting, so the camera needs to be steady as the shutter needs to be open longer. No better device for this than a good tripod. Just make sure it is of good quality and “lighter” is always better if possible. Who wants to lug a heavy tripod around as you search for that perfect tripod.
I could go on and on about this subject but I think this will get you started. In future articles I will be talking about lenses and filters and other accessories to help take that stunning photograph that will “knock their socks off”. Taking photographs in the outdoors is a great hobby and as you get better you might be able to position yourself into a full-time career.
Landscape Photography – The Principal Interest
Nov/110
A landscape, like any other kind of picture, needs a principal item of interest to which the eye naturally travels. This, as a rule, lies in the distance or middle distance.
The main item of interest may be emphasized by adjusting its tone scale and placing in the final picture. It is not often possible to emphasize it by differential focusing, because most lenses render the middle distance and distance equally sharp at all apertures.
But there is often some atmospheric haze in the air and this splits up the picture into more or less clearly defined planes. This haze lightens the tone and softens the edges of shapes in the far distance. There is less haze between the closer planes and the camera, so the nearer they are, the clearer and sharper they look. And the shadows of nearer objects have a thinner veil of mist over them, so they appear blacker than more distant objects.
This natural separation of the picture planes can be reduced by the use of color filters.
But the interest must also be prevented from being led out of the picture. Straight, horizontal lines: fences, roads, waterways, and the horizon itself:tend either to divide the picture or to direct the eye out of it. But so long as the line is broken or hidden by some other object before it reaches the margin of the picture, it loses most of its distracting power.
One useful way of keeping the interest within the boundaries of a landscape picture is to frame it with dark foreground objects, e.g: a gateway or overhanging trees.
Sunrise and Sunset Photography
Oct/110
Light at sunrise and sunset is richer in red and orange rays than in the middle of the day.
Photographs of the sky at sunrise and sunset are apt to be disappointing when seen in black-and-white as the main attraction about such a scene is its color. At the same time much of the beauty of the sky can be reproduced by careful technique. Generally the exposure should be kept to the minimum value; anything like a full exposure gives a dense negative and a print that lacks the necessary feeling of luminosity. For the same reason the negative should be processed in a soft-working developer to preserve the delicacy of the tone rendering in the highlights.
Panchromatic films are always best for black-and-white photographs taken early or late in the day because they are sensitive to red light.
A sunrise or sunset is best photographed in color. Exposures should be kept to a minimum, otherwise the scene will be colorless and have a washed-out appearance. A daylight color film without filter should generally be used, as such a scene would lose considerably if its characteristic red quality were removed.
When photographing scenes illuminated by a low sun, and not the sunrise or sunset itself, however, it will often become necessary to use a correction filter to render the scene less red.
At such times of day the light changes quickly from minute to minute and any special effects need to be anticipated and photographed without delay.
landscape photography devon
Feb/110
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Taste of North Devon – Slideshow
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